11th July 2010 – Ranjan and Daddy had arrived on 10th morning and gathered some valuable information for upward journey. Main carvan were going from Bhagwati Nagar Army camp, but some private travel agencies ply taxies of various kinds according to the number of passengers. M/S Lucky Travels agreed to provide us a 12 seater Force Traveller vehicle at a mutual acceptable fare @ Rs. 400/- per head. Then we finalized our pick-up points by 7.00 am.
On 11th morning we separated very essential items to be used in yatra and rest were kept in the locker of dharmshala. In drizziling we left Saraswati Dham and reached bus stand fly over where our vehicle for Pahalgam was waiting us. Driver Vijay asked us Rs. 3000/- as advance for fueling his vehicle. It was 12 seater vehicle but we were only 10, so vijay had already arranged two passengers (Mr& Mrs. Pyarelal Sharma of Haryana).
When our taxi rolled on the road we needed some light refreshment. Mangesh opened his bag and distributed dry fruits among us and Sharma’s family too. In beginning Sharma family had some hesitation to us due to unknown person but later on became familiar like family member.
Outside scenery was very picturesque. Our taxi stopped briefly at dhaba near Udhampur for breakfast. A very beautiful view of mountain scene appeared before us at Patnitop. We enchanted to see the beauty of nature. We asked Vijay to stop to take some photographs. Now we were moving along Chenab River for an hour. After crossing Khooni Nala our vehicle reached at highest altitude of this route. We were moving on national highway no. 1A. The history of the roads to Kashmir is very interesting. A few was narrated by Daddy as follow. Akbar built a foot track after the conquest of Kashmir to retain it in his empire. It became known as Mughal road. From Gujrat in Pakistan, it winds through Akhnoor – Bhimbar (PoK) – Naoshera – Rajouri – Poonch – Shopian in the Valley.
Jehangir fell ill in Kashmir and was returning by the Mughal road. He died in the way. To prevent the decomposition of his body, the internal organs were taken out immediately. The place was known as Chingas and became famous as the grave of Jehangir.
In 1888, the Dogra Kings (1846 to 1947) began to built all weather road connecting Kohala in Muzaffarabad (PoK) with Baramula. It was completed at a cost of 21 lacs and named as Jhelum Valley Cart road (132 km). Within a few days of its opening, a primitive vehicle (automobile) entered in Srinagar. A post office was opened in Srinagar Cantonment in 1884, telephone arrived in 1892 and plane was flown to Srinagar by Army in 1925. As the J.V.C. Road became life line of the valley, the Mughal road fell into disuse. After independence, a part of J.V.C.R.was occupied by Pakistan.
Jammu- Srinagar Road No. - NH 1A (293 km) – In 1901, the Dogra Kings completed a cart road from Jammu to Udhampur (65km) and further extended upto Srinagar by 1912 and known as Banihal Cart Road (or King Cart Road). It was personal road of Maharaja till 1922 and permit had to be obtained to use it. After independence it was maintained by PWD. It was upgraded as NH in 1954, and handed over to Beacon Project of Border Road Organisation. Jawahar Tunnel (2.5 km at 2210 m/ 7,250 feet) was built in 1964 by a German firm. It is still safer than the old aligorment over Banihal pass and reduced distance by 32 km. Moreover it remains open throughout the year and it has reduced the closure period of the highway from 3 to 4 months to 3 to 4 weeks in a year. While passing through the tunnel we felt that we were passing in a tube. Security arrangement was very tight. CCTVs are working in the tunnel for continuous monitoring.
Coming out of tunnel it subtly appeared different look from the side we had crossed. Now we were moving in the most beautiful valley of the world i.e., Kashmir. Mountains remained behind and valley’s terrain was ahead. Moving in Kashmir valley is just like moving in paradise. We had seen many films and documentaries in which beauty of Kashmir had a deep impact in our mind. Now we were running in that very place and enjoying the beauty of Kashmir with naked eyes. There come unique moments in life that pass like a dream. One must catch them on the wing, for they never return.
“who has not heard of the Vale of Kashmir,
With its roses the brightest that earth ever gave ,
Its temples and grottos and fountains clear,
As th long lighted eyes that hand over their wave.”
We reached Anantnag by 4.00 pm. Our vehicle took right turn for Pahalgam. Since curfew was at many places in valley, our driver Vijay was little tensed. There were some stone pelting mobs had defied curfew at many places in Srinagar, Badgaon, Kulgaon, Pampore&Anantnag in south Kashmir. They attacked Police personnel also. All shops, schools, colleges, banks, post-offices, business & Govt. Offices were found closed. Both side of highway, CRPF jawans were guarding from Qazigund to Pahalgam. We reached Pahalgam safely by 6.00 pm.
A big security check up camp was working round the clock at Pahalgam. We paid balance amount to Vijay and walked to the camp. After going through many security check-up we were allowed to enter into the camp. Here tentage accommodations were available on hire @ Rs. 100/- for folding bed and Rs. 60/- for mat and dari bed per head per night. We also booked one tent of mat &dari. Keeping our sacks in the tent we went to visit to the bank of Lidder river flowing a few yards from the camp. What we have dreamt about beauty of Kashmir we were now enjoying with our naked eyes. Kashmir, known as the paradise on the earth is the most picturesque place in the world. It is the grandeur, the beauty and the splendour of the Kashmir Himalya that will captivate you. The glitter of the morning Sun on a snow peak, the majestic of a rugged monolith, the infinite peace of a meadow strean with daisie, forget-me-not, buttercups, and wild primules, the silence of a starry night, the sensuous joy of bathing in the cold water of a mountain stream leave a great impact on the visitors. The valley is studded with many sparkling fresh water lakes, numerous brooks, foaming streams with dashing cascades, dancing through countless meadows surrounded by lofty peaks and massive glaciers. The valley is fertile and rich in forests. The fruits:- Apple, Peaches, Pears, Plums, Cherries etc are of excellent quality. Western visitors have impressed with its beauty, charms, climate & people. They have described Kashmir as “Switzerland of Asia” and Srinagar as ”Venice of East”. A Pharsi poet has said for Kashmir:
"अगर फ़िरदौस बर-रू-ए-ज़मीं अस्त,
हमीं अस्त ओ हमीं अस्त ओ हमीं अस्त।"
(If there is Heaven anywhere on the earth, that is here, that is here, that is here.)
JIM&WS – From Lidder we walked a few yards towards Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering & Winter Sports. My Daddy was very much familiar with this institute. Its previous Pricipal Col. Kahlon and Gp. Capt. S.S. Puri were Daddy’s friend. Col. Puri & my daddy were both member of Indian Mountaineering Foundation, New Delhi, an apex body of mountaineering in India. Daddy had sent more than 30 candidates from Bokaro to attend Basic as well as advance courses. Puri Saheb had already visited my home town Bokaro and my house also. All officials were well known to him but that day (11th July 2010) was Sunday and office was closed. Anyhow a senior instructor met us and took us in side the campus and shared valuable informations.
Slowly darkness began to start from 8.00 pm. And we returned in our camp. There were a number of food stalls serving different variety of food free of cost to pilgrims as well as ponywala, pithu, dandiwala, tentwala and other men rendering their services to the pilgrims. We came to know that more than 70 lungars are operating in Amarnath yatra route. These Lungars are run by religious societies, rich business houses and Shiv Bhakts committee of Punjab, Haryana, Delhi, Chandigarh, Jammu etc.
Volunteers were doing their work with great devotion. Some of them were requesting us as – “Bhole !Bhole !come here and have some food.” It is a big relief and help to pilgrims getting free food from Pahalgam to Holy cave and Baltal side also. Daddy told us his experience of 1979 when each group had to carry their own tent, ration for six days, kerosene, stove, pressure cooker and other utensils. Though ponies, pithus and dandies were available but each group had to pitch their own tent, cook food & clean utensils themselves in those days.
