Pahalgam to Sheshnag : Yatra Day 1

12th July 2010 – We got up early in the morning. Toilet and bathrooms were not in sufficient numbers and suitable conditions. Supply water was very cold. Hot water was available @ Rs. 20/- per bucket. All were in haste to be ready quickly to start yatra as early as possible. People were standing in queues in front of each toilet and bathroom. To be free from nature’s call & bath was a very difficult task. Though fooding arrangements were in abundance but toilet facility were not sufficient rather insufficient and inadequate.
Anyhow we became ready for upward journey by 7.00 am and came to exit gate, where more than 5 to 6 thousand people were standing & waiting for opening the exit gate. After standing for more than one hour we came to know that gate was closed due to non-availability of vehicles for Chandanbari. All pilgrims were frustrated at buffet. It came to our knowledge that many pilgrims staying in hotels outside the camp had taken taxis and had gone to Chandanbari at the break of dawn and we were held up by security men up to 9,30 a.m. Standing in heavy rush for more than 2.30 hrs. was a very bitter experience than travelling in Mumbai-local train. Pilgrims staying in hotels were given privilege to start their journey by 5.00 am while the pilgrims in the camp were detained like prisoners for such a long time. Anyhow gate was opened by 9.30 am and we came out on the main road which was crowded with pilgrims. Luckily one empty mini bus was found and we all boarded for Chandanbari @Rs. 65/- per head for 16 km and one hour journey.
Chandanbari is a small picturesque valley at 2,900M/6,500 feet above MSL. It is situated at the confluence of Sheshnag stream and the stream of Astanmarg. Here we had to go through security check up. We got lunch at a lungar and started our onwards trekking for Sheshnag.

Pissutop – The route from Chandanbari is very steep climb upto Pissu Top. The scattered rocks & boulders remind the legend that to reach first for darshan of Bholenath, Devs & Danavs begane to fight each other. There broke a perilous battle in which Devs became winner by killing all demons due to grace of Shivji. Such large number of heaps of their dead bodies had resulted in this high mountain. It took more than one and half hour to reach the Pissu Top. Still we had to cover 9 km to Sheshnag. Distance has no meaning in mountains; it is altitude which has to be negotiated has worth considering. Now we were above tree line. Though thousands pilgrims were going up, a few were returning also after holy darshan. Many pilgrims were trekking, some were going on ponies and some old and handicapped on dandies.

Jozipal – At Pissu Top our team members divided into 3 batches, i.e., fast movers, medium and slow walkers. In our first batch were Ranjan, Ajit and Shushil who were instructed to reach Sheshnag earlier and book tent. They reached by 5.00 pm. Where Dr. Ashok lal& Ganesh Chandra by 7 pm.
Myself, Kunal, Mangesh, Shiva and Daddy were moving in slow speed. When we reached Jozipal, an small flat ground, it was getting dark, but we had to cover more than 4 kms. After one hour trek, we were instructed by security men to hurry up because our camp was still 4 km. Kunal & Mangesh exhausted too much because it was their first high altitude trek. Shiva also not feeling well due to headache and too much exhaustion. When things become confused outside you fix on your mind at once the rule of not judging by appearance – refer all to the Divine with the confidence that all will clear. Daddy convinced us that it was not illness but altitude effect and would be relaxed after getting rest in tent. An illness is only wrong atitude taken by some parts of body. The Doctor’s role is, by various means, to induce the body to recover its trust in the Supreme Grace. It was getting dark so we had no other option but to continue our trek. Good judgment is result of experience, but good experience is result of bad judgment. It was amazement that a family returning from holy cave was carrying a kid of 2 yrs old. It is strongly advised in mountaineering not to bring kids below 12 years because they do not sustain high altitude effect, thermal shock and thin oxygen density.

We the slowest members reached Sheshnag camp by 9.30 pm and made announcement to call our team members. Ajit appeared and took us to our tent. They had booked a ten men tent for Rs. 1800/-. We were so much tired & exhausted that we did not care for dinner and entered into sleeping bags. Shushil & myself messaged Daddy’s body. Dr. Ashok gave some medicine to Shiva. Mercury gone down below -50 C.